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Glossary
Photography has a jargon of its own.  Most of the words come from the uses of the camera or the film. If you don't understand the meanings behind the words, The manuals, discussions and photographic exhibitions can become quite confusing. Information can be found at the following sites:
Creative Photography Glossary ... Everyday Magic
Look at the world of photographic words from a different point of view

Introduction to Photography
Basic information on all types of photography.
Exposure and Depth of Field
The amount of time light is allowed to strike the film or photographic paper determines its' exposure. Failure to understand exposure can result in pictures that are either too dark, too light or fuzzy (photographers call it "soft"). Many cameras are automatic and do all the work for you. This is particularly true for point and shoots.   However SLR cameras often come with a manual mode which allows you control. You become a true artist. You determine how much and what light strikes your film. You decide what is soft and what will be sharp. You select the temperature and texture of the picture. It is in your hands. The camera can be like the artist paint brush, if you know how to use it wisely and efficiently.
Exposure is controlled by....
The appropriate film for the subject. 100 speed film will not work well with a sporting event. Some older cameras require you to set the film speed manually with a switch or knob, but newer models automatically read the DX (speed) and set it for you.
The correct shutter speed. This refers to the amount of time the lens stays open to allow light to strike the film. It is like the blink of your eye lid. The faster you blink, the less time the light has to reach your retina. They are described in seconds and fractions of seconds. 1,2, 4, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500, 1,000, 2,000 (i.e. 1sec, 1/2 sec, 1/4 sec, 1/8 sec). Most SLR cameras also have a bulb exposure. It holds the lens open as long as you press the shutter release. The red indicates speeds in which you need to use a tripod.
The aperture or f-stop refers to the width of an open lens. It can be compared to your iris. The wider your iris opens the more light will hit the retina. They are read in numbers such as 1.4, 2, 2.8, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, and 22. The higher the number the smaller the lens opening. The lower the number the wider the lens opening. If you move from an f/8 to an f/5.6 you are doubling the amount of light reaching the film (called one stop). If you move from f/11 to f//16 you are cutting the amount of light reaching the film in half.
Check the F-stop chart to get an idea of which aperture would be best for a subject you plan to shoot.
Keys to Exposure
The three keys to exposure must be used in correct combinations. My recommendation is that you use a good light meter or  the meter in your camera. Remember that if you change the f-stop either up or down you must change the aperture setting in the opposite direction. in order to maintain the same exposure. For example suppose you are shooting a race. You set your camera at  f5.6 at 60. You want to stop the action so you move your camera to 125. You must change your f-stop to 4 to maintain proper exposure. The same is true for changes in the opposite direction. Picture it as a child's see saw, one side goes up the other side must go down and so forth.
Depth of field the range of picture sharpness. Three factors determine this range of sharpness
The size of the lens opening. The smaller the lens opening (aperture) the greater the depth of field. The larger the lens opening the smaller the depth of field.
The distance the object is from the camera. The closer you are to the subject the narrower the depth of field. The further you are from the subject the greater the depth of field.
The focal length of the lens you are using. The longer the focal length of your lens the shorter your depth of field. The shorter the focal length of your lens the larger your depth of field.
The Aperture: This ring adjusts the aperture as you turn it to the right or left
All lenses have an aperture ring to set the f-stop The ring has a scale that shows you approximately how much of the subject is in focus at each f-stop. Practice with the aperture ring till you can work with it easily.
Modes Set: automatically adjust the settings of your camera internal light meter.
P (Program AE)( has an icon that looks like a rectangle) In this mode the camera automatically sets both the shutter speed and the aperture.. This mode reads the entire scene and sets the controls as to what it thinks would give you the best picture.  Basically this is the automatic mode!
TV (Shutter priority AE) In this mode the camera will automatically set the aperture when you set the shutter speed.
Av. (Aperture priority AE) In this mode the camera will automatically set the shutter speed when you set the aperture.
DEP (Depth-of-Field AE) In this mode the camera will set the shutter and aperture so two objects will be in focus. You select the distant subject by pressing the shutter release. Then you select the near object  the same way. The camera then sets the proper settings to put both in focus.. Not all SLRs have this marvelous mode. My Canon A2 has it and I have found it very useful!
M (Manual exposure) You set both the shutter speed and aperture. Here is where you can become the real artist. Try it in this mode and get the thrill of creating a work of art.
Bulb Exposure mode-(icon a B) This mode opens the shutter after you press the shutter release for as long as you hold the shutter down. This mode is used to expose the film at night or to get great depth of field for inanimate objects.
Multiple exposure mode- (icon two frames overlapping one another)-This mode stops the film so you can get a double exposure.
Multiple flash mode-This mode makes the strobe flash more than once on a frame.
Spot meter mode (has an icon of a circle with a rectangle around )-This mode takes readings from a small area of the scene. After you set the camera on this mode (read the manual, not all cameras set the mode the same way) you  press the shutter release half way down. The camera evaluates the light and sets the controls. Compose your  picture and press the shutter release a second time. It is useful for subjects with strong backlighting, close-ups and slide photography.
Exposure compensation mode-You override the cameras exposure. It opens or closes the shutter according to the numbers you select. This mode is useful in correcting situations such as snowy days, deserts or beaches where you have a tremendous amount of contrasts.
Some cameras have a knob that has a series of pictures on it. These pictures (portrait, landscape, action and general) represent preprogrammed settings.  These can be handy if you are shooting in a hurry. This is kind of a hybrid between a point and shoot and an SLR.
Other Controls
X (Flash Sync  Mode) In this mode you can attach your camera to an external light source such as a strobe or flash by using the pc terminal or an accessory shoe.
AE lock This will lock all settings for the shoot.
AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing) In this mode the camera will shoot a series of pictures at different exposures automatically.
Exposure Compensation Mode  In this mode you can force the f-stop up or down to correct for snow, water or sand. Great for winter shots!
General Information Hot Links
Photo Secrets
This site also gives a lot of basic information on photography.
Focus on Photography
This site covers a wide range of techniques to improve your photography.
If you have a web site or know of a web site to add to the list click here. I will check it out and see if it can be used.
Page created by Inspired Art, Sandy Arroyo Photographic Artist
Inspired Art does not guarantee the quality or accuracy of the information provided by the web sites.
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